![]() It does not replace the actual capturing of the image brackets. In the absence of one, try supporting yourself on a firm object to eliminate inconsistencies between frames.Īs much as possible, avoid the practice of manipulating a single RAW image’s exposure values (Highlight and Shadow) for HDR processing, as some people suggest. But you should note that Jpeg is only an 8-bit file.Ī tripod would give you unequaled consistency. However, if your camera doesn’t shoot in RAW, no worries, use Jpeg. Bottom-line: Shoot in Aperture Priority or Manual. This invariably means that you’re likely going to notice unwanted blurry images in the final composite. Altering the aperture value would affect the camera’s depth of field. But generally, 3 exposures are usually perfect!įor smarter and more accurate captures, you could set your camera’s Auto Exposure Bracket (AEB) and 2 stops + and. It all depends on how much contrast there is in your scene, then, of course, your preference. But it’s generally recommended that you take up to 5 different exposures (2 overexposed, one at “zero”, and 2 overexposed). Hence the need for this HDR photography tutorial.įirst, you’d need to capture your source images with your digital camera device. However extraordinary and efficient Photoshop’s HDR Merge is, you simply cannot just ‘dial’ the option – you require a roadmap. ![]() Photoshop’s “Merge to HDR” feature (on older versions) or “Merge to HDR Pro” (on newer versions) is an extraordinary tool that can be used to accomplish remarkable photo merge (of a series of bracketed exposures) into a single HDR image, thus encompassing the tonal detail of the entire series. There are some other apps capable of creating HDR, like Paintshop Pro, but now I’d be showing you how you can do your HDR in the Photoshop CS. In this HDR Photoshop tutorial, you’d be learning smart and practical steps on how you can use your Photoshop editing program to create stunning HDR images. Hence the need for the HDR photography technique which helps to ameliorate the shortcomings of your camera. This is because the natural human eyes are capable of accommodating a far larger range of tones than any camera possibly can, in a single photograph. When you’re at any location (work or pleasure day or night), your eyes are able to see and ‘feel’ all the light and dark details (maximum dynamic range) of the environment. Increasing a camera’s exposure value, for instance, implies that we’re sacrificing more details in the brighter region for the relatively darker one, and vice versa. Setting a camera’s exposure range ultimately means that we are sacrificing other elements of the captured image. This photographic technique makes available to professionals, and photo lovers, a whole new set of lighting possibilities which may have been previously avoided or thought unattainable – for technical reasons.Įssentially, a standard camera is limited in capability as far the amount of tonal detail (also known as the light intensity or dynamic range) it’s able to accommodate or capture. ![]() ![]() The High Dynamic Range imaging technique can be described an as-you-wish photography technology that makes it possible for photographers to capture a greater range of tonal detail (in bracketed shots) than could have been otherwise possible in a single image. ![]()
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